Nick The Foodie Boston

http://tavernroad.com/menu/dinner/

Location: Boston, MA (See on Map)

The Foodie: Recommends

The Brothers DiBiccari just nailed a medium-rare skirt steak in the ground on Congress Street in the burgeoning Fort Point ‘hood.

It tastes good.

THE LOOK: I don’t usually dwell on the décor or ambiance of my chosen feasting grounds, but Tavern Road sports a ‘smart,’ ‘modern,’ ‘clean,’ ‘stylish,’ joint with a l’ull artistic flair.

THE COOK: Louis DiBiccari has an impressive resume that includes L’Espalier, Sel de la Terre, and the Herb Lyceum. He is also the secretive mastermind behind the infamous “Chef Louie Nights” that are one part Iron Chef, one part Pop-Up, and one part Awesome.

THE FOOD: My friends, the menu here reads like a carnivorous foodie’s last meal.  There are small tasting dishes of charcuterie items that include lardo, duck prosciutto, and smoked ham. The “first courses” take on the small plate format and feature pork, lamb meatballs, steak tartare, and smoked fish belly. There are a few dainty greens thrown in here and there as well.

Mmmmm....Lardo.

A feature called “Today’s Animal” includes one meaty dish ginned-up on the chef’s whim. When we ate here, said animal was a house-made sausage of duck, veal, and pork that made my heart skip a few beats (now and when I turn 65).

The main events include duck legs with lavender and honey, beef short rib with cinnamon and cashew, and one particular item that holds a special little space in my heart: porchetta.

=======Dramatic Porchetta Monologue=========

Let me pause right there for a moment. Porchetta is a skin-on slab of pork belly wrapped around a trimmed center-cut pork loin and seasoned with herbs, fennel, and citrus. Done properly, this masterpiece is first assembled before resting 1-2 days in a fridge, and then slow-roasted in the oven. The beautiful porchetta served at Tavern is a generous round slab of herbed-crusted, crispy-skinned, tender-as-hell pig that will linger on your taste buds and strum on your soul strings for weeks (nay months) after entering your food zone.

Where Pork Belly Meets Pork Loin

=======Fin======

Back to the menu. Innovatively, the main events are served without sides and the diners are left to choose between an assortment of dishes to share amongst the table. Sides include braised kale with raisins and pine nuts, spaetzle, and creamy grits with an egg on top (my favorite).

As if all that wasn’t enough, Eater Boston reports that Tavern Road will soon have a take-out operation hitched to the side of the restaurant that will be serving plates on the go that are inspired by street foods of the world.

MY MOOD: After enjoying a hearty man’s meal and washing that down with craft beers, I felt happiness, tightness in the stomach region, subtle glee, good cheer, and slight fogginess in the brain area at the hand of Pretty Things Baby Tree.

A nice addy to Fort Point as this corner of the city becomes more of a destination for food lovers. Come to Tavern Road for the porchetta, today’s animal, lardo, beer and creamy grits. Feel like I did.

Yes, I will join the tide of food writers listing off their top meals and restaurants of the past year. Yes, I will continue a tradition I started last year. Yes, you will be happy eating at any of these five wonders of the local food scene – as selected by the Hiram Bingham of culinary exploration – which is of course, yours truly. I travel by “T” though rather than donkey.

Whereas the defining theme of last year’s Top 5 list was “Gimme Something New and Different,” 2012′s top eats were more balanced between zany new creations (i.e., grilled romaine and braised oxtail salad at Strip T’s, house-made XO sauce at Journeyman, lamb belly w/ orange and moxie at Puritan) and insanely good renditions of classic dishes (i.e., roasted bone marrow at Puritan, fenugreek-smoked duck at Herb Lyceum, the ramen at Yume).

Interestingly, this list seems to also touch upon Contemporary American, Farm-to-Table, Snout-to-Tail, Classic and Modern Asian cooking. These trends are already the zeitgeist in the food world, and I hope they do continue into 2013.

1. The Herb Lyceum | I can’t keep a secret very long – the true identity of my recent “Mystery Review”
2. Strip T’s | Three cheers for one the most eclectic restaurants I’ve ever eaten in.
3. Puritan & Company | This newcomer to the food scene definitely makes my short list.
4. Journeyman | One of the most inventive, creative, scrumptious meals you’ll have on either side of the Charles.
5. Yume Wo Katare| One bowl of ramen was all it took to solidify their spot on this coveted list.

http://puritancambridge.com/

Location: Cambridge, MA

The Foodie: Strongly Recommends

–“Men of New England, I hold you to the doctrines of liberty which ye inherit from your Puritan forefathers.” –

The puritans left England to practice what they believed without persecution. Like the intense cult-prone adventurers who first developed the new world, Will Gilson has sailed out into uncharted culinary territory with his new restaurant to worship the demigods of lamb belly, jamon iberico, and bone marrow on his own terms.

I am here to tell his story.

While I’m pretending to be an historian, I’ll throw a little more history atch’ya – a local business called Puritan Cake Company once occupied the space that now houses this immaculate new temple of gourmet righteousness. In fact, the new owners will even present their interpretation of the cake once produced here in little bite-sized pieces at the end of your meal.

I open this review with a lesson of our past, for, in Churchill’s words: “Those who fail to learn from history are doomed to repeat it.”

Gilson, it appears, was paying attention during his “ye olde volume ‘o cooking history” class in culinary school. The menu at Puritan & Company shows deference and respect for rustic New England favorites while taking a few chances with cuisine from other regions and incorporating interesting twists on the foods of our forbearers. This is also a restaurant strongly grounded in the fat of Massachusetts soil – with goods sourced from Savenors and The Herb Lyceum (the Groton farmstead owned by Gilson’s family).

Now, without much further ado, I present to you my analysis on my flavor fave dishes from Puritan that I had the joy of eating from our charcuterie table seats:

The softest, buttery brioche roll you will ever taste – topped with some amazing lightly-shaved sea salt. Washed down with a Peak Organic dark nut brew made specially for Puritan that involves a little ginger and honey from the Herb Lyceum.

Something called Gougeres. I’ve never seen these in France (assuming they’re a French dish), but wherever they hail from these things are awesome. Lightly-toasted warm balls of wonder stuffed with rosemary and cheddar mornay. Tasted like a gourmet cheez-it.

Cheez-its, Beware!

Rare Jamon Iberico freshly shaved from a $1,200 hock of cured ham sitting by the charcuterie station. Lightly nutty, smooth, and tender.

Fresh-Shaved from the Ham Hock

“Swordfish Pastrami.” One of the most unique and inventive plates on the menu, this dish incorporates spiced strips of smoked sword, cannelles of chilled mustard cream, brussels, and pumpernickel essence. Amazing.

Pastrami of the Sea

Bone Marrow Gratin. Easily one of the best dishes on the menu here, Puritan’s bone marrow is beautifully plated on a bed of hay and roasted with an array of herbs, butter (surely) and garlic. Spreading a little of this gelatinous goodness on a slice of torched duck fat brioche was literally one of the best things I’ve done all year.

Will You Marrow-Me?

Lamb Belly. Probably the other “must try” dish on the menu here in addition to the marrow, lamb belly is similar to pork belly in terms of the presentation and texture, however it comes with an added gaminess and earthiness that is matched wonderfully with an orange + moxie sauce. I’ve never had anything quite like it but I loved it.

Lamb - The Other Delicious Belly Meat

Clam Chowder. Pure genius. Your server will bring over a sexy-looking lineup of clams sharing their shells with a little friend named fried pork belly. A warm creamy broth will then be poured over the bowl from a pitcher. Totally creative.

Not-Your-Mother's Clam Chowda

Wood-Roasted Muscovy Duck – A solid classic bird paired with quinoa, wild mushrooms and thyme.

Order any of these dishes and your stomach will thank you like a pilgrim feasting on a freshly-cooked turkey.

A few words on a singular Puritan plate that, while risqué and interesting – misses the mark a bit. Lamb chop and lamb sausage. This ends up looking like a funny giant lamb lollipop. A bunch of ground lamb sausage is packed around the chop and just becomes overwhelming to eat (plus a little dry – it’s gotta be tough to cook right). If there is one dish on the menu I would replace – it would be this one. Instead – put a game bird, rabbit,  wild boar or some lobster on the table!

On the whole, Puritan & Company really nails it. The restaurant itself is beautiful and will surely be a success with an array of very well-executed dishes that are unrivaled elsewhere.

The first settlers of the new land knew that they were on to something when they laid the first foundations of a society free from sexual misconduct, blasphemous words, and witchcraft. I thank Chef Gilson for bringing a few spoonfuls of sin back onto New England soil.

The Hours

Location: Cambridge, MA

The Foodie: Strongly Recommends

If you’ve walked through Porter Square between the hours of 6 and 10pm recently, you may have noticed something different.

By day, an unassuming storefront with a foreign name – Yume Wo Katare lights up for a few hours five nights a week to shovel a delicacy beyond words into bowls for a line of hungry hungry hipsters that stretches to the door of Dunkin’ Donuts and can command over an hour long wait.

As you stand in said line, people will stop open-mouthed and stare at Yume not quite understanding what the hype is all about. They may even ask you what everyone is waiting for. You might say “Ramen” and receive a confused look.

Don’t worry – these misguided individuals just don’t understand.

During your experience in line – you are likely to bond with your fellow Ramenites, marvel at the popularity of Yume, and study the rulebook of eating here. A few tips for your first visit:

1. Come hungry, and arrive at the beginning of the night (15 minutes before opening recommended)
2. Bring no more than one other ravenous individual to ensure a small party
3. Do not plan on takeout, for this is not an option
4. Bring a wad of cash, for they do not take plastic
5. Enjoy pork. Liking pork belly is better. Loving noodle soup also imperative. There is only one variety of Ramen served here and it involves loving spoonfuls of both.
6. Read the helpful posters of information taped to the windows as you wait in line, for lots of useful information awaits you.
7. Be prepared for whether you want Ramen ($12) or Buta Ramen ($14). The difference is the number of pork slices you receive – the regular ramen gets you two slices and the buta gets you a whopping five.
8. Know the answer to the question: “Ninniku Iremasuka?” or “Do you want garlic?” This will be politely screamed at you after your order is taken at the register.
9. Know that every minute of your wait will be worth it, and that the idiosyncrasies are a fun part of the experience of eating here – in other words, pick up your britches and get ready to eat!

Do you want garlic?

RAMEN REVIEW: Yume’s bowl of Ramen is a tantalizing creation that will hook you at the first slurp. It starts with a broth that is one part abura (pork fat), one part soy, and one part ‼ “マジック“‼  I’ve read that this broth is lovingly cared for over the course of 24 hours and simmered with pork bones. Then you’ve got cabbage and bean sprouts. Next, there’s a heaping ladle of thick house-made noodles boiled quickly in a huge wok. Finally, there’s the most succulent and tender pork you’ve ever tasted. They use a fattier, thick, pork-belly-like cut. I’m not exactly sure how they do it, but it’s gotta be marinated and slow-cooked for several hours at the very least. The Jiro-style of ramen served at Yume is the first of its kind in the U.S.

At the first bite the world around me melted away, downtempo started playing in my head, my eyelids grew heavy, and I uttered a slow food moan. I tasted this Ramen in my soul.

Waaay Tastier Than It Looks - Trust Me.

Now mind you, I wasn’t able to make it into the wildly popular Guchi’s Midnight events that sold out quicker than a U2 concert. I also haven’t tried the ramen at Uni. Sadly, I’ve never been to Japan either. So don’t consider me a ramen connoisseur. But I’d venture to say that this will rank up there with some of the better ramen you’ve ever sampled. It’s also probably authentic stuff.

I will end this synopsis with a short story to illustrate the uniqueness of Yume:

When we were seated and our ramen orders were ready, a server gingerly carried a bowl over to my dining chum and murmured something quickly in Japanese that I would assume was something like bon appétit. We slid the bowl down to me before our second bowl arrived and our server looked let down by the switcheroo. We wondered why. At the end of the meal I asked why each bowl of ramen is destined for a single individual and our server translated my question for the chef. He said “I connect to you.”

You connected to me Yume. You tickled my food gland. You spoke to my sinews. I will return.

Other views and information on Yume:

Boston Globe

Boston Phoenix

Japanese American in Boston

Yume Wo Katare Kyoto (the other location in Japan)

http://radiusrestaurant.com/

Location: Boston, MA

The Foodie: Recommends

In my last post I admitted a dirty habit of getting into flings with gourmet burgers. My brief 10-minute affair with the Radius Burger was about as amazing as these encounters get.

First of all, the interior of this restaurant really gets you in the mood for culinary love-making. Classy, modern, upscale, dimly-lit – and the service really is exceptional. All I needed was a little Barry White or Al Green to complete the experience…

Weighing in at $20 – the Radius Burger is a force to be reckoned with. Here is a detailed account of each voluptuous feature, if you were to check her out from top to bottom:

• Thick, soft, nice buns, slightly toasted
• Mounds of lightly battered fried onion strings packed in on top
• Perfectly melted VT cheddar wrapping the burger in all its goodness
• A lovely, dense, incredibly juicy and well-cooked burger that is right on with flavor. The burger patty is thick and probably made from tenderloin it was so luscious.
• All of the above is caressed by the most amazingly light, creamy, horseradish sauce that really “makes” the burger and ties everything together.

I complemented my meal with a couple Duvels and loved every minute of the experience. A truly exceptional night of burger romance that will definitely have me coming back for more.

Could this fling turn into something more? Time will tell…

http://rf-osullivan.com/

Location: Somerville, MA

The Foodie: Strongly Recommends

Hey, you come here often?

Like political views, sexual fantasies, and spiritual orientations, burgers are a personal thing.

They mean something different to each individual, and one’s definition of the “best” is often a matter of debate. So let me tell you what a truly amazing burger means to me, and why RFO is in the know.

Hell, I definitely get hot for specialty gourmet balls of prime beef that sell for up to $20 – throw some marrow in your burger, top it with a fried oyster, kick it up with some nice aioli or unique sauce, rock the double-patty with slaw, or top it with VT Cheddar – and I’m game.

But in the world of burgers, the gourmet funky fling is my mistress and the down-home quality comfort is my life partner.

For me – the truly transcendent burger is a simple thing. It is selfless, it is generous, it is kind. It is the Buggha.  The all-knowing, reincarnate, most comforting comfort food that holds the power to soothe and ease and make anything warm.

What R.F. O’Sullivan’s has that none other has matched for me is the feeling. There is something about their towering, ball-shaped, high-quality burgers that makes them a little more juicy, a little better seasoned, a little more comforting than any other. That secret lies with O’Sullivan himself (if there is such a man).

Walk into O’Sullivans and peruse a menu that is clearly focused on the art of the burger. A whole single page of variations on the theme screams out to you while a separate page of special renditions strikes your fancy. My ultimate favorite order is the Blackjack (a very well seasoned patty topped with a spicy Creole mojo sauce, cheese, and the usuals) cooked medium-rare with onion rings on the side and a good pint of Guinness….

Essentially the meaning of life boiled down to a bun. And that’s why RFOS is my top of the top in the Boston area. Anyone who says differently – read another blog.

http://www.oyarestaurantboston.com

Location: Boston

The Foodie: Strongly Recommends

There’s every other sushi restaurant you’ve eaten at in your life, and then there’s O Ya.

Yeah, that’s right. This underground citizen food blogger just ate at a restaurant that received an unheard-of 29 Food Rating from Zagat, was named one of the Top 10 Sushi restaurants in the country by Bon Appétit, and frequently makes it into various “Best of Boston” rankings. New York Times food critic Frank Bruni himself gushed over these guys.

I’ve written in past food prose that sushi lends itself to being categorized in tiers. Well, O Ya just created their own freaking level of classification.

Given that the entire United States food rating machine has already raved about this spot since the five years after it opened, this humble critic will just describe it as food porn and let the following full-size pictures from my 16-course Omakase tasting menu tell the rest. After this I’ll have to purchase a “dot xxx” domain. Happy food lust:

View of the huge sauce line-up from the sushi bar

Fish is way more beautiful on a plate than in the sea...

Scottish salmon, spicy sesame ponzu, yuzu kosho, scallion oil

Fried kumamoto oyster + yuzu kosho aioli + squid ink bubbles = mouthgasm

Shima aji & santa barbara sea urchin, ceviche vinaigrette, cilantro

Real seared wagyu beef petit strip loin. Two words: life-changing.

Thank you. Come again.

http://www.facebook.com/CasaBRestaurant?sk=info

Location: Somerville, MA

The Foodie: Strongly Recommends

In a few words: Caribbean and Colombian tapas that may just change your life

Casa B is a story about Albert and Angelina.

It’s a story about two former architecture students who decided to design the structure of amazing cuisines instead.

It’s a story about a small catering business that was destined to become something so much more.

It’s a story about Puerto Rican and Colombian culinary influences inspiring small plates in three formats:

• Pinchos (served on bread, sized to split amongst two)
• Tapas (plates sized to split amongst two)
• Tablas (larger portions sized to split with the whole table)

It’s  a story of a beautiful, modern restaurant on both street front and sub-levels.

It’s a story of simply astounding food that leans more towards the sea. Forget your Spanish tapas joint and travel to South America and the Caribbean with me for a moment:

• Albondigas in amazing tomato-based sauce
• Trio of fresh Ceviche that included lobster and salmon incorporated with peas and corn.
• Seared sesame-crusted tuna “bites”
• Cod fritters that were perfectly fried
• Salted plantain chips and creamy asparagus spread
• Jamon. Jamon. Jamon.
• Crazy lightly-fried chorizo and melted goat cheese creation (the flavor overshadows the name in my memory)
• More sliced chorizo with some nice yucca
• Thin seared steak, sauce and caramelized onions on grilled toasts
• Puerto Rican “doughnuts” – Mmmmmm.
• Great bottles of Rioja that were reasonably-priced and most under $30
• A proper Caipirinha.

It’s a story about one of the best meals I’ve eaten in the Boston area in 2011 and about a great new addition to Union Square.

It’s about you trying these guys out in the new year to contribute to the story. Enjoy.

http://twfoodrestaurant.com/

Location: Cambridge, MA

The Foodie: Strongly Recommends

TW Interior

Don’t come here.

I’m about to tell you why this is one of the best restaurants in the Boston area, and why I really don’t want you chumming it up in what is going to be “my” spot.

I knew TW FOOD existed for years and drive frequently through the Huron Village ‘hood, yet I’ve never been quite able to figure out where the hell this place was.  Far from a real foodie neighborhood and any form of public transportation, they fell off my food-dar over the years. Lazily cruising through town the other day, I noticed the understated sign and food front which prompted me to immediately shout “eureka” and make rezzo’s for dinner and brunch in the same weekend.

We arrived for a later dinner on Friday night and immediately felt at home and cozy in the modern, small, classy interior. Before I continue, know that the menu here presents some of the most inventive, taste-bud kinkiness in town. I now break down my meal for you, play-by-play:

• Charcuterie with pork rillettes, five-spice chicken liver mousse, and house paté
• Veal. Veal. Veal. A thin escalope over what was, in the words of Gordon Ramsey [cue accent] “the most amazing, succulent” braised veal with hints of vanilla and smooth creaminess that had my fork coming back for more and more. Essentially I’d describe it as gourmet veal popcorn. Meat lovers out there, take note. On the side there were really moist small potatoes and crispy kale that rounded out the dish nicely.
• A dessert called “Scotch and Cigars.” Hands-down the most inventive dessert I’ve had anywhere. Tobacco ice cream, beignets, and scotch chocolate sauce. I swear if I had just closed my eyes and eaten this plate – I would have had the sensation that I was actually having a fine cigar and glass of good scotch while enjoying high-end doughnuts dipped in rich-as-hell chocolate-y goodness.

I’d describe the plating and portions here as more minimalist, and every bite was just packed with amazing flavor.  On to Sunday Brunch highlights:

• Beef brisket hash with poached eggs – totally refined, delicate, beautiful.
• House-make kielbasa. ‘Nuff said.
• A scrambled egg ‘cocktail’ (see pic) that produced one of the most delicate scrambles I’ve ever tasted. Their secret is cooking the eggs on real low heat and adding extra yolk during the process. Yeaaaah, nuh nuh nuh nuh.
• Oh yeah, and head chef Tim Wiechmann plays a mean jazz guitar with a three-piece jazz band during the brunch hours. Redonculous.

TW Brisket Hash

TW Scramble

Finally, a little history lesson for y’all. If you thought that this spot looked a little Ten Tables-esque, that’s because the head chef hails from that other amazing Boston resto. Chef Tim Wiechmann (hence the TW) got hitched to fellow Ten Tables colleague Bronwyn (cool name) and then went off to launch their own start-up – and this one is poised for a major IPO (Incredibly Plated Obsessions).

So dear friends – don’t eat here. I want this to be the ‘great local spot’ I tell out-of-town-chums I’m taking them to, the place I take my de-lovely to eat on our anniversary, the jazz brunch I hit with beer buddies after a night of many pints.

Stay away. Mine. All Mine.

http://trinastarlitelounge.com/

Location: Cambridge, MA

The Foodie: Recommends

In a few words: No, it’s not a strip club.

Though it looks possible from the outside, Trina’s Starlite Lounge is not filled with pole-dancers and dollar bills.

Instead, it’s a hot dog fest. In a good way guys. We’re talking about the following:

• Best corn dog in Boston. Hands-down. Amazingly-fluffy “corn,” all-beef beautiful dog. Nothing bad at all to say about this bad boy.
• Dog of the day: Last time I was here, it was an amazing dog stuffed inside a puff pastry and topped with legit grain mustard.

Beyond the dogs, they’ve got a mac ‘n cheese that is made with love and ends up being about as good as a lap dance. I don’t know how they do it, but American Cheese, cream, huge pasta shells and crumbled Ritz crackers never tasted so decadent. One of the best mac’s in the region folks. Straight-up.

Come to Trina’s to eat devilishly. Gorge on hot dogs, eat a heart-attack “mac,” enjoy legit micro-brews, and live life.

I’d share pictures, but it was too dark inside. Ha.